Mazaa aa gaya

Happy Id …uh! Id Mubarak, I corrected myself.

Aapko bhi per aaj bhi kya Id hai…Mangalwar? Bakhra Id on a Tuesday? Kaise khilayen aapko…Bakhra kaun katega aaj?

Vegetarianism on Tuesday …a very north Indian Hindu concept ...one that has seeped into the psyche of those too long associated with the north. Can’t remember if men or children in Bengal are ever forced into vegetarianism unless they are in mourning.

Happy Id! I repeated the words to myself…listen to yourself speak; it stems out not restricting your thinking to one language.

I had been chastised only a couple of day before for chatting happily with Sunil Gangopadhyay.

‘My brother’s daughter!’ apologized my aunt to the celebrity writer of Bengal, ‘listen to her speckled Bangla.’

‘Natural progression,’ he smiled. 'I have heard it said in Raj shahi in Bangladesh ...ki mojar khabaar!...and have often wondered how food could be percieved as funny. It was all explained the moment I was told about the ancient trade route that entered from Bihar bypassing what is modern West Bengal. It all made sense. The East Bengalis were infact using the northerner's phrase to appreciate a good meal: Mazaa aa gaya.'

Ayurveda and Southern Hospitality

‘From where madam?’

Madam was past caring. The warm trickle of oil was making its way very slowly down the nape of her neck.

With firm brisk strokes the tide was stemmed as practised fingers worked the magic of the herbs into the skin, kneading here, teasing there …

‘Coming from?’

She was no more than 4 feet something dressed in the cream coloured sari of Kerala with its glittering gold border and a dot of sandalwood paste on her forehead. A diploma holder in Ayurvedic massage, she, along with a host of other young women, caught a boat daily to the Ayurveda centre.

Large flat earthen vessels of water with pretty flowers, freshly plucked, awaited them in their rooms. A cool job! The thought had come to my mind when I first saw the worker come to shake the flowering trees at the crack of dawn. Only the ones that refused to be knocked loose were chosen.

Fragrant steam arose as the poultice of herbs was applied on the sore spots along the neck. Sleep welled up in great delicious waves.

‘Delhi.’ The word was articulated with great difficulty.

‘Following doctor’s treatment madam?’

I shook my head unwilling to make more of an effort. I had paid a cursory visit to the Ayurveda restaurant. The young Malayali steward had shown me around and even showed me one of the diet charts before turning to a guest and switching to the most incomprehensible Germanische-sprache. Glenda; Female: 70 years; Sweden; permitted only lime juice, no tea; coffee; salt; onion; garlic….the list was endless. Needless to say the restaurant was a pure-veg one. Glenda appeared deprived of most of the Indian condiments too…Dear Dear Glenda did you have a clue before you signed up for this? I for one was on holiday: the sumptuous continental, north and south Indian buffet spreads, the seafood platters, the chicken liver curries, appams and stews supervised by the smiling conspiratorial stewards who aided the squirreling of muffins and cream doughnuts just in-case one managed to feel peckish despite the prompt room-service.

‘Done madam.’ The final light slapping invigorated the muscles. ‘No sleep now,’ was the final admonition as I headed out of the shower and made my way to the pool.

Thank you Glenda. Thank you for undertaking this journey to keep the great tradition of Ayurveda alive.

Incredible India

‘We were here the year the Tsunami hit. We had just reached Poovar when we got the news that the little fishing village we had been staying at on the Chennai coast had been wiped out. People we had spent the last few days with…they were just no more! They were poor you know…incredibly poor, living in shanties. And here we were in all this luxury…Here? Oh more than 3 months now. Coming in from the north this time. Caught a bus, a regular one mind you, from the hills to Delhi.’

‘The bus conductor had taken quite a shine to me,’ she grinned. ‘He insisted we sit right behind him!’

‘Probably so that he could look after you.’ I hazarded.

‘You think?’ The husband winked naughtily at me. Days of lying in the Poovar sun had bequeathed a thick spread of freckles that threatened to merge together into a uniform brown. ‘I was left behind at all the rest stops to guard the cameras while she was escorted to the toilets.’

‘I hardly need to describe them.’ She shuddered. ‘But you would know all about it.’

This British couple, in their late sixties, wintered every year in India experiencing the many faces of ‘real India.’ The chai for her was on the house but when the driver and the conductor opened their tiffin boxes and insisted she eat with them, she had declined firmly. Her husband who watched through the barred windows, keeping the poultry and livestock company, smiled at the gaggle of young village youths who had left everything to stand and gaze.

‘How much do you earn in England? … What could I say? If I told them … it would appear obscene. How could I explain buying power? I made some attempts but then the next question had me stumped… Have you had tea with the queen?’

The memory made him burst out laughing. ‘That village on the outskirts of Corbett was more British than Britain!’

‘But sharing food is very oriental. I for all my metro lifestyle find it very awkward to chomp away by myself with others present.’

‘And that is how it should be. Shouldn’t it? Sharing food … how we have lost the warmth!’ She sighed.

‘Have you been to London?’

I nodded smiling inwardly …people, no matter from which part of the world, were no different.

‘Loved it.’ I said.

‘Really!’ was the incredulous response. ‘What could you have loved about it?’ She splashed her legs and gazed up. ‘I for one could do with more sun.’

‘Looking for a house.’ Her husband chipped in. ‘Would like to settle in India…’ he shot me a glance. ‘But not in Delhi.’

The room with the best view

It wasn't until the morning of 10th Nov that we had realised how we had been pampered. My repeated calls to the resort reiterated the fact that a wheel chair would be required and we needed to be as close to the dining area as possible.

Room No. 201: The first glimpse as we raised the blinds.

The room was fabulously positioned.

Steps led past our room to the swimming pool and dining area.

The foreign guests lounged on deck deckchairs reading, tanning themselves periodically entering the pool for a couple of lengths before settling for a beer at the sunken bar.

Non of the other rooms could boast of a view like ours.

Tiffins - the dining area overlooked the pool.

Lastly the floating cottages by the jetty.
The sun set upon Poovar and the kite whistled overhead.

A splash of an oar and a father and his boys make their way home for dinner.

The Swedish group on their 2 month Ayurveda adventure end their day with yoga. The chant of 'Satya satya satya' and fragrance of sandalwood fill the beach front.

Back from Paradise

‘I zink zis is paradise?’

It was a statement not a question but with a dare in it. Could I disagree? Sapena rested her bronzed arms on the edge of the pool. The water lapped luxuriously about her body as she contemplated the blue of the sky framed by the fresh green of the coconut and the darker fronds of the palm. A white-breasted fishing eagle wheeled high above. It was time for the fishermen on the sandbar to draw in the catch.


Paradise.

Poovar was truly a paradise nestling in God’s own land – Kerala. All thoughts of dry dusty Delhi with its garbage heaped along the roads had been driven away. I sank further into the silky water. A four- hour flight had brought us to the southern most part of India and the first realisation as we emerged from the aircraft was that it had been pouring until moments ago. A resort taxi had whisked us through the dark sleepy lanes of Trivandrum through little towns fast asleep. Old crooked men waited hunched over sticks, crones with dogs by their side sat just beyond the reach of the headlight beam. Eerie and mysterious they waited until we flashed past turning into benign walls or posts in the wink of an eye. The heart thudded and then quietened as a light appeared. In a little gazebo, dressed in white and pale blue, sat the Madonna smiling down at her infant. The fresh fragrance of the rain washed earth swirled deliciously around. An hour … it had seemed much longer … and we were climbing down a thickly forested path towards a light. There were steps but the guard ran down and firmly grasped my mother by the arm. We picked our way carefully down to the Neyyer River where a motorboat waited. The engine chugged to life and we were on our way through the pitch dark waters which turned a jade green along the sides of the boat. The dark curvy silhouettes of the coconut palms fringed the banks of backwater some tilted at almost impossible angles stretched flat along the surface of the water. A pale moon, round but not quite full, turned the tops silvery. A faint plop sounded. The gleam of a fish, or was it a frog, skipping along caught the eye. I stopped myself from reaching into the water. Did I hear the slap of a reptilian tail? Amitav Ghosh! Thank you very much.

The waterway widened. We had been travelling for over half-an-hour. The sea appeared to open up in front of us. There was an island in the distance. Nonchalantly I had turned to the boatman. ‘That is Poovar?’

‘No madam. To your left.’
Miraculously lights had appeared to the left. The shapes of the floating cottages could now be quite distinctly made out and bright lights shone in what appeared to be a jetty. A reception committee was waiting. In the arc of the light, straddled on a vessel of two coconut palm trunks held together with twine was a fisherman, his lungi bunched about his knees, examining his net. It was alive with silver.

The Way We View The World

Sandhi Puja - Click on Poster to enlarge

Shashti

The sixth day after the new moon. Today the invocation will begin... a precedent set byLord Ram. He was the first mortal to have invoked the Devi waking her from the atumnal sleep - akaal bodhon...untimely awakening.

Today all mothers will fast and pray to Shasti - the maternal aspect of the Devi.

Today is a day of fasting... light and crisp luchi with cauliflower and potatoe dalna, chane ki dal with fried bits of coconut and raisins.

Eat light today. Eat simple. Finish with a rice paish ... fragrant gobindobhog grains in lightly sweetened milk that has been thickened to creamy texture over a slow fire.
Raisins, cardamom powder and bay leaves add to the aroma.

CLICK PHOTOS TO ENLARGE

Mantras and Food

Panchami 4th October 08: the fifth day after the newmoon - the best day to eat and make merry. The images have arrived but remain behind a veil.

Anandomela: men and women; old and young; slave over hot stoves and display their culinary skills.

Paromita's mangshor cutlet - crisp on the outside and a juicy meaty tenderness within.

Perfection: Dilip Kaku's Sandesh served on banana leaf platters.

Mukherjee Dida's Radhaballabi stack ... paper thin and transparent delicately flavoured with asafoetida and stuffed with dal

Aloo dum - potatoes with cumin and coriander seeds simmered on a slow fire.

And her famous Gokul Pithe ... she smiles but will not give out the recipe.

Chingri and rice

Gopa's fish cutlets: a spicy carp filling and an outer coat of golden mashed potatoes.

Nandini di in action ... sandesh, maacher chop, mangshor cutlet... the porotha and kosha mangsho remains just out of the camera range.

Proma's spicy baby potatoes with squeeze of lemon, a sprinkling of coriander and crisp sev ...

Ashtami

Sri Sri Durga Sharanam

Shudhi:
Nomo Vishnu, Nomo Vishnu, Nomo Vishnu
Nomo Apobitro, Pobitroba, Shorbo Bosthang Gotho-ho Piba
Jah Shoret Pundori Kakhang Shobha-jhyo-bhontarang Suchih.
Nomo Madhobo Madhobo Baachi, Madhobo Madhobo Hridi
Smaranti Shad hobo Shorbey Shorbo-karjeshu Madhobom
Nomo Shonkho Chokro Dhorong Vishnung Dvi Bhujang Pito-bashonam Prarombhe Kormonang Biproh Pundorikong Smare Dharim.

Anjali 1.
Nomo, Ayurdehi Joshodehi Bhagyong Bhagwati Dehimey
Putrandehi Dhonongdehi Shorbaan Kamang-scho Dehimey
Nomo Bhogoboti Bhoyo-chheydey Bhobotarini Kamodey
Shankari Kaushiki Tvanghee Kattayani Nomostutey
Nomo Prochondey Putro-dey Dit-tvang Shupritey Shuro-na-i-key
Kulo-dwo-kore Devi Joyong Dehi Nomostutey
Esho Shochondono Gondho Pushpanjoli
Shayu-dho-bahono Poribaar Shohito, Sri Sri Bhogoboti Durga-oi Nomo

Anjali2.
Nomo Durgot-tarini Durgey Tvang Shorba Shubho Nibarini Dhoromartho Mok-khodey Devi Nityang-mey Boroda Bhobo
Nomo Durgey Durgey Moha-bhagey Traahimang Shonkoro-priyey Mohisho-sring Modon Mot-tey Pronoto-hoshmi Proshidomey
Nomo Shorbaa Baadha Prosho-monong Troi-Iokyo-sha Khilesh-shori
Ebom Ebo Tvo-ya Ka~o Mosh-mod Boiri Binashanong
Esho Shochondono Billo-patran-nito Pushpanjoli
Shayu-dho-bahono Poribaar Shohito, Sri Sri Bhogoboti Durga-oi Nomo

Anjali3.
Nomo, Horo Paapong, Horo Kley-shong, Horo Shokong, Horae Shubhom Horo Rogo, Horo Kshobhong, Horo Maari, Horo Priyey
Nomo Kali Kali MohaKaIi Kalikey Paapohaarini
Dhoromartho Mok-khodey Devi Narayani Nomostutey
Nomo Ayur-do-da-tumey Kali Putrandehi Shoda Shibey
Dhonong Dehi Moha-mayey Noroshinghi Josho-momo
Nomo Mohish-agni Mohamayey Chamundo MundomaIini
Ayur arogyo Bijo-yong Dehi Devi Nomostutey
Esho Shochondono Gondho Pushpanjoli
Shayu-dho-bahono Poribaar Shohito, Sri Sri Bhogoboti Durga-oi Nomo

Prarthonaa:

Nomo, Montro Hinong, Kriya Hinong, Bhokti Hinong, Shureshori
Joth Puji-thong Moyadevi Poripunong Toda-stume
Nomo Grohitung Sharodi-pujang Mortho Mondolo Shong-sthitham Chandike Tvang Nomaa-myodo Shoyo-mor-ghyong Pro-gri-hyo-taam Nomo Ka-ye-no Monosha Baacha Totto Nan-nyo Gotir-no-momo
Onto-scha-reno Bhutanang Droshti Tvang Poromeshori

Pronaam:
Shorbo-mongolo Mongoley Shibey Shorobartho Shaadhikey Shoron-ney Trombukey Gauri Narayani Nomostutey
Srishthi Stithi Binasha-nang Shakti-bhutey Shonatoni
Gunasroy Gunomoyey Narayani Nomostutey
Shorona-gotho Deenarto Poritraney Porayoney
Shorbo Shyarthey Horey Devi Narayani Nomostutey

Saptami

Sri Sri Durga Sharanam

Shudhi:
Nomo Vishnu, Nomo Vishnu, Nomo Vishnu
Nomo Apobitro, Pobitroba, Shorbo Bosthang Gotho-ho Piba
Jah Shoret Pundori Kakhang Shobha-jhyo-bhontarang Suchih.


Nomo Madhobo Madhobo Baachi, Madhobo Madhobo Hridi
Smaranti Shadhobo Shorbey Shorbo-karjeshu Madhobom
Nomo Shonkho Chokro Dhorong Vishnung Dvi Bhujang Pito-bashonam
Prarombhe Kormonang Biproh Pundorikong Smare Dharim.

Anjali 1:
Nomo Ayurdehi Joshodehi Bhagyong Bhagwati Dehimey Putrandehi Dhonongdehi Shorbaan Kamang-scho Dehimey
Nomo Bhogoboti Bhoyo-chheydey Bhobotarini Kamodey Shankari Kaushiki Tvanghee Kattayani Nomostutey

Esho Shochondono Gondho Pushpanjoli Shayu-dho-bahano Paribaar Shohito
Sri Sri Bhogoboti Durga-oi Nomo ....

Anjali 2.:
Nomo Durgot-tarini Durgey Tvang Shorba Shubho Nibarini Dhoromartho Mok-khodey Devi Nity-ang-mey Boroda Bhobo
Nomo Durgey Durgey Moha-bhagey Traahimang Shonkoro-priyey Mohisho-sring Modon Mot-tey Pronoto-hoshmi Proshidomey

Esho Shochondono Billo-patran-nito Pushpanjoli Shayu-dho-bahono Poribaar Shohito
Sri Sri Bhogoboti Durga-oi Nomo




Anjali 3.
Nomo Horo Paapong, Horo Kley-shong, Horo Shokong, Horaa Shubhom
Horo Rogo, Horo Kshobhong, Horo Maari, Horo Priyey
Nomo Kali Kali MohaKali Kalikey Paapohaarini
Dhoromartho Mok-khodey Devi Narayani Nomostutey
Nomo Ayur-do-da-tumey Kali Putrandehi Shoda Shibey
Dhonong Dehi Moha-mayey Noroshinghi Josho-momo
Prarthonaa:
Esho Shochondono Gondho Pushpanjoli
Shayu-dho-bahono Poribaar Shohito
Sri Sri Bhogoboti Durga-oi Nomo
Nomo, Montro Hinong, Kriya Hinong, Bhokti Hinong, Shureshori
Joth Puji-thong Moyadevi Poripurno Todo-stume
Nomo Grohitung Sharodi-pujang Mortho Mondolo Shong-sthitham
Chandike Tvang Nomaa-myodo Shoyo-mor-ghyong Pro-gri-hyo-taam
Nomo Ka-ye-no Monosha Baacha Totto Nan-nyo Gotir-no-momo
Onto-scha-reno Bhutanang Droshti Tvang Poromeshori
Shorbo-mongolo Mongoley Shibey Shorobartho Shaadhikey Shoron-ney Trombukey Gauri Narayani Nomostutey
Srishthi Stithi Binasha-nang Shakti-bhutey Shonatoni
Gunasroy Gunomoyey Narayani Nomostutey

Narayani Nomostutey

How Green is my Valley

Whats happening this September?

Durga is getting ready.

A mother Shalik (Common Mynah) arrives with a fat larva for tea.

Her babies are tucked in for the night.

The branches of the shewli are fast filling up with buds.

The Kadam stands tall remembering Radha who danced with her beloved Krishna beneath its generous shade.

The shewli blossoms lie scattered beneath the tree waiting to be picked up by the early morning walkers. The orange stalks will be plucked and dried and saved until Saraswati Puja that will come next spring. Then the young girls will soak in them in hot water until the colour seeps out. White fabric will be dyed and the light yellow (Basanti colour) saris will be worn to felicitate the goddess of education.

The Kadam tree has burst into blossom - each one a bright orange and round...much like a tangerine.

The Bel - Bengal Quince - has borne fruit. Its leaves (billo patranjali) will be used for the puja.